Tag Archives: Greece

ATHENS, GREECE // TRAVEL DIARY // FEBRUARY 2020

In the Air Again

After a truly memorable two weeks in Florence, Ben and I packed up for another time and headed further south to the beautiful city of Athens, Greece.

Athens was always a city at the top of my “have to visit” list – the immense history of the city itself was enough for me! I didn’t expect to fall in love with the scenery and gorgeous people as much as I did! I went in with no preconceptions at all over what to expect, because I really had no idea. I have visited Greece before, but only islands and Athens was already so different from that in many ways.

We stayed in a beautiful homey apartment near the up-and-coming Koukaki neighbourhood – an area with an abundance of cosy restaurants and quaint cobbled streets decorated with aromatic orange trees. The Koukaki neighbourhood is just south of the Acropolis hill and only a 15-minute walk to the Acropolis itself and a 20-25 minute walk to the main city centre further north of the Acropolis.

To get to the Acropolis, we walked through a valley with an abundance of olive trees, below Philopappos Hill (Hill of the Muses) and it gave us the most beautiful views and sunsets!

Our Athens Bucket List Experience: Visiting The Acropolis

One of the main things Ben and I wanted to see when we were in Athens was to visit the stunning historic Acropolis which towers over the city of Athens. One of mine and Ben’s favourite topics to learn about is mythology and mythological history and Athens had LOTS of this!

We walked to the Acropolis Hill in the early morning of our first Saturday and it was already so busy! We first visited the phenomenal Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Roman stone theatre that dates all the way back to 161 AD! It was primarily used as a music concert venue and had a capacity of 5,000 people. It was sadly destroyed in 267 AD but was restored in the 1950’s using Pentelic marble, and is now the main venue for the Athens Festival which features many national and international performances and runs yearly from May to October.

The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus
The Odeon of Herodes Atticus

After spending some time wandering around the odeon, Ben and I made our way further up to the very top of the Acropolis where we were encompassed by centuries of Greek history. It was a feeling I cannot describe fully…I was in complete awe.

We entered the main Acropolis through the Propylaea, a monumental gateway that dates back to 437 BC. Past the Propylaea, we entered the centre of the Acropolis with stunning views over the city of Athens. Featured at the top of the Acropolis Hill were the Erechtheion, an ancient Greek temple dedicated to Athena and Poseidon which dates back to 421 BC in addition to the temple of Athena Nike which dates back to 420 BC and was where citizens worshipped the goddess Athena in hopes of winning the Peloponnesian War against the Spartans.

The Propylaea
The Propylaea
The Propylaea
The Erechtheion
The Erechtheion
The Temple of Athena Nike

One of the main parts of the Acropolis that Ben and I were dying to see was the Parthenon. Similarly to the other sites on the Acropolis, the Parthenon is a former temple to the goddess Athena and dates back to 447 BC. Construction of the temple began during the peak of Athenian power and is regarded as the most important surviving building of Ancient Greece and is seen as an enduring symbol of Athenian democracy, Western civilisation and Ancient Greece itself.

Similar to the other temple of the Acropolis, the Parthenon was viewed as a celebration of victory over the Persian invaders and are thankful gifts to the Gods for providing them with the strength to conquer and win over opponents.

The Parthenon
The Parthenon

Our Athenian Food Discoveries

It is true to suggest that many tourists visiting the city of Athens come to see the incredible archaeology, ancient architecture and historical artifacts. Though they are phenomenal, they aren’t the only aspects of Athens that are drenched in history!

Walking down from the Acropolis, you enter winding streets on an almost vertical tilt. You pass brightly coloured houses and breathe in the succulent aromas of Mediterranean cuisine. Ben and I stopped many times to take in the delicious food and gorgeous surroundings. We tried souvlaki, gyros, Greek meatballs, tzatziki and lots of different cheeses! We were often accompanied by a variety of feline friends who wrapped themselves around our ankles as we sat outside, our tables drinking in the sunshine.

We also jumped at the chance to try kourou pies from an Athenian bakery just off of the main shopping square, called Ariston Bakery. Kourou pies are shortcrust pastry pies often shaped in a semi-circle which is then stuffed with salty feta cheese! It was so delicious that we had to try to make it ourselves…more on that later! Despite me loving the feta cheese (the more the better!), Ben isn’t too keen on cheese that isn’t melted, so he went for a sausage pie and after having a bite, I can confidently say that it was also super delicious!

Our Greek platter for two
Chicken souvlaki
Our Greek feast!
Ariston kourou pies
My delicious kourou pie from Ariston

City Street Wanderings

Athens is the perfect city for afternoon strolls and romantic evening walks. The bustling markets selling traditional Greek jewellery with blue opal (their national stone), colourful patterned rugs and crisp white Greek tunics. It’s difficult to not get immersed in the culture, and let’s be honest – why would you not want to?

If the city streets become overwhelming you can step further out to the quieter edges of Athens, where you will find more greenery, olive trees and the beautiful nature of Greece. Ben and I firmly decided that Athens is definitely a city we would want to revisit – we didn’t manage to visit every single one of the monuments (there are so many!) and we would love more opportunities to wander through the Athenian market streets.

Our Athenian Cooking Class with CookinAthens

Following our current tradition of taking part in a cooking class in each country we visit, Ben and I took part in a fantastic private cooking class in the historic centre of Athens. We don’t often have the opportunity to eat a lot of Mediterranean food, as it is quite few and far between where we live back home – pizza or Chinese food is usually our go-to! Therefore, it was amazing to be in a country where we could eat delicious Greek food all day, EVERY DAY if we wanted!

Some of our favourite meals in Athens were the delicious courses we cooked with Marilena in our Airbnb cooking experience, CookinAthens! Marilena made us feel completely at home in her huge kitchen, which had stunning views of the Acropolis, all lit up and glowing in the evening darkness. We made Greek salad, fresh tzatziki, pastitsio (Greek lasagna), revani cake and last but CERTAINLY not least – kourou pies!

It was such a great and DELICIOUS experience – we would highly recommend Marilena’s class whenever you visit Athens and we have included the links to the experience as well as the recipes learned down below!

Greek salad
Tzatziki
Pastitsio (Greek lasagna)
Kourou pies
Revani cake

Ben and I had a truly unforgettable experience in beautiful Athens and we can’t wait to return and experience even more of what the historic city has to offer!

Next, we head to gorgeous Albania, a city steeped in political history, and we are looking forward to visiting somewhere unlike anywhere we have been before!

-ARIA

Places Visited/Mentioned:

Recipes:

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REVANI CAKE WITH LEMON CINNAMON SYRUP – ATHENS, GREECE

Revani cake is syrupy sweet and oh so simple! It is a semolina cake that is served throughout the eastern Mediterranean and can vary depending on the country. The Turkish revani, for example, is slightly different and features hazelnuts. However, this recipe focuses on the beautiful revani cake that Ben and I made in historic Athens, Greece!

Revani is the perfect sweet finale to our comforting pastitsio and is perfectly accompanied by natural Greek yoghurt or clotted cream and dusted with almonds.

Our Cooking Class Experience

Ben and I learned to make this delicious cake with Marilena of CookinAthens and it was completely different from any cake we had made before! At home, I primarily make lemon cakes, chocolate cakes, and jam cakes. I have never ONCE tried my hand at a syrup semolina cake, so it was definitely an experience!

However, despite our reservations, it was incredibly simple and quick to make! it is definitely a recipe that can be made for a large group of people and is ideally suited to those with a HUGE sweet-tooth!

Despite being a relatively simple recipe, there are a couple of things to remember! For example, when preparing the cake, you must remember to use fine semolina, or else the texture could be too coarse. In addition, to ensure the cake is perfectly moist, the syrup must cool completely before being poured over the warm sponge cake, or else it could end up being very soggy!

If you remember those two points – you will create a delicious, moist revani!

I really hope you enjoy this syrupy-sweet recipe for a true taste of the Meditteranean!

For a PERFECT starter and main to accompany this dessert, why not try my fresh Greek salad and comforting pastitsio?

Yamas!

ARIA

[cooked-recipe id=”1803″]

COMFORTING PASTITSIO (GREEK LASAGNA) – ATHENS, GREECE

Just like an Italian lasagne, a pastitsio has all the elements of a delicious meal: pasta, meat and LOTS of cheese! However, it’s the spices that make this dish stand out from the rest. Just cooking the lean ground beef in the pan with the intoxicating aromas of cinnamon, allspice, and oregano was enough to make my head spin!

Pastitsio is the ULTIMATE Greek comfort food – up there with the likes of moussaka, gyros and souvlaki! This recipe is suitable for six people (or three people with BIG appetites!) – so get the family and friends together, grab some raki and cherish time spent with one another!

Our Cooking Class Experience

Ben and I learned this delicious recipe for pastitsio in our Greek cooking class with Marilena of CookinAthens! Instead of cooking the traditional moussaka, we chose this recipe to create instead as it was something Ben and I had never tried before! Even though it was new and different, we knew that it would be a good one as soon as we smelt the meat sauce sizzling in the pan. Plus, let’s be honest – you can’t really go wrong with meat, carbs, and cheese now can you?

There are a range of substitutions that can easily be made to make this dish suitable for a variety of diets! Swap the ground beef for a meat-free mince substitute (e.g. Quorn) for vegetarians, and try your hand at a simple vegan bechamel sauce from This Savoury Vegan as a substitution for regular bechamel!

This is a truly comforting dish that can bring the family together, so it is fantastic if you can make it all-inclusive and I look forward to hearing your substitutions and additions!

I really hope you enjoy this hearty recipe for a true Greek classic!

For another trip to the Greek islands and for a PERFECT pairing to this dish, why not try my traditional homemade tzatziki and fresh Greek salad?

Yamas!

ARIA

[cooked-recipe id=”1802″]

TRADITIONAL HOMEMADE TZATZIKI – ATHENS, GREECE

Since trying tzatziki not too long ago, I now put it with almost EVERYTHING! It is the perfect, refreshing addition to any meal and I can see immediately why it’s so popular in the Mediterranean and Middle-East!

Tzatziki is a fresh dip made with strained yoghurt, cucumber, garlic, and olive oil. This recipe also includes dill for added flavour, an addition which is also very common! The dip is served cold and is a perfect partner to vegetables, meats, breads, and crackers.

Our Cooking Class Experience

Ben and I learned this DELICIOUS recipe for tzatziki in our CookinAthens cooking class with our teacher Marilena. One thing we added LOTS of into this recipe was garlic – for me, the more garlic the better! But if you aren’t as much of a fan of garlic as Ben and I, then feel free to add a minimal amount or none at all.

This recipe goes brilliantly with the crispy kourou pies that we made – hot and crispy pies mixed with cool and light tzatziki made for a very tasty combination!

We made this tzatziki with yoghurt, dill, garlic, vinegar, oil, and cucumber. However, other additions can be used including mint, parsley or thyme. It all depends on personal preference! I recommend trying this basic recipe first, and then figure out what you would want to change or substitute when making it in the future!

However, despite Ben and I being slightly biased, we do think it is pretty great as it is and we now put it with EVERYTHING! You cannot go wrong!

Similar to the fresh Greek salad recipe, this recipe for tzatziki is quick and simple and can be made ahead of time and stored in the fridge – perfect for busy dinners with the family!

For another delicious European recipe, why not try my spinach and chickpea tapas? Or for a match made in heaven, this recipe makes for a beautiful side dish for my comforting pastitsio!

Yamas!

-ARIA

[cooked-recipe id=”1800″]

CRISPY KOUROU CHEESE PIES – ATHENS, GREECE

So I have been obsessed with kourou cheese pies since trying an INCREDIBLE pie from a Greek bakery in Athens, which was recommended to me through the Lonely Planet’s Eatlist book – which I check regularly so that I can find the best locations for delicious local food no matter what country Ben and I end up in!

Kourou cheese pies are a crispy shortcrust pastry filled with a delicious creamy medley of Greek cheeses and IT IS INCREDIBLE!

Our Cooking Class Experience

Ben and I booked our Athens cooking class with CookInAthens whilst we were still in Florence because we were SO READY to make all the delicious Greek food!

We walked from our apartment south of the Acropolis through the bustling market stalls and winding cobbled streets to reach a kitchen studio with a gorgeous view of the towering Parthenon in the distance.

Our teacher Marilena was fantastic! She was incredibly knowledgable about each dish we were cooking and its history and compiled a personalised menu full of the specific dishes Ben and I have always wanted to learn how to cook! One of the dishes: KOUROU CHEESE PIES!

Kourou pies are a Greek delicacy and can often have a range of fillings. However, this recipe is simple, anti-fuss and will suit even the pickiest of eaters (Ben, for example, doesn’t like cheese unless it is melted or crispy and he LOVED this little pies!)

The kourou pies make for a fantastic appetizer, starter or a hot little hug from the Mediterranean as a quick snack dipped into some homemade tzatziki!

Various substitutions can be made to make this recipe gluten-free – simply alter the flour, and can also be made vegan with plant-based cheeses! For those who aren’t vegan or gluten-free and don’t have access to the specific Greek cheeses used in this recipe, simply swap the anthotiro cheese for ricotta cheese and the manouri cheese for feta!

If you want to push the boat out, other fillings for these pies can include pesto, sun-dried tomatoes, and peppers!

I can’t wait for you to try these little parcels of happiness! I hope that they transport you to the sunny streets of Greece!

For another delicious Mediterranean dish, why not try my swiss chard and ricotta ravioli with lemon butter sauce from Florence, Italy?

Yamas!

ARIA

[cooked-recipe id=”1799″]